On 17 May Norway celebrates National Day. On that date in 1814 the National Assembly finalized the constitution of the country and elected Prince Christian Fredrik to be King of Norway. Never mind the fact that Norway was under Swedish dominion at the time—the citizens of Norway held up their own constitution and linked their future to their past, when their lands were possessed by neither Sweden nor Denmark. Since that day 17 May has been an occasion to celebrate.
Maria and Martin (our hosts in Oslo) managed to get us tickets for the parade grounds right in front of the royal palace. We got to see the royal family of Norway (king, queen, crown prince, his wife and new daughter, and princess) come out on the balcony to begin their three hours of waving to parade participants and spectators. From that place we could watch—between umbrellas, for it drizzled all day—the parade go by.
National Day in Norway is first and foremost a day for children. Over one hundred local schools take part in Oslo’s parade, waving their flags and saluting the royal family as they go by. Legend has it that since Norway was under the power of the Swedish throne in 1814, Norwegians were not allowed to celebrate any sort of independence. They certainly could not make any show of military strength—the usual format of independence day celebrations. So the citizens of Norway led their children out into the streets on parade, knowing that the Swedish authorities could not levy any power against young children. Thus a tradition was born. Now the adults line up to watch the young people of Norway carry thousands of flags—large and small—down the main avenue of Oslo.
In spite of the rain that day the parade was a feast of colour. Besides the ubiquitous Norwegian flags, spring hues came in the form of the many national costumes worn by Norwegians on this holiday. Men and women wear the formal outfits of the region of Norway from which their family originates. The traditional linen and wool shirts, dresses, breeches, and coats are dyed bright colours and boast gorgeous embroidery. Norwegians wear these costumes all day (as well as for weddings, baptisms, and other formal occasions) and make conversation by asking, “From where does your costume come?” It is a beautiful sight to behold.
In case it wasn’t enough to watch the parade, we actually had the chance to walk in it! When we had had enough of the rain, Martin led us off the island reserved for spectators and into the parade behind one of the many primary school groups. Waving our Norwegian flags we marched up to the palace, under the balcony—where the royal family waved to us—and back down into the city. When’s the next time we’ll be able to march before royalty?
That evening we attended a concert in the National Theatre in which Martin played violin with the orchestra. All the pieces were written by Norwegian composers, and the bill included performances by high school students (in line with the children’s emphasis of this holiday) that were outstanding. (I was particularly impressed three boys performing a jazz piece for piano, guitar, and bass.) Norway was paying homage to one of their great playwrights, Henrik Ibsen, this year, so between musical pieces young students performed theatrical pieces from Ibsen’s work. Although I couldn’t understand the Norwegian, their emotive performances were excellent and made it a joy to watch.
So if you’re ever in the mood to go to Norway, make sure to plan your trip to include the 17th of May—it’s a blast. Thanks to Maria, Martin, Sissel, and Michael for making it such a fun time.
~ emrys
P.S. Photos are posted :) ~sjt
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